Dried Fruits

One of the great increasing mysteries of today’s modern boatbuilding is the amount of hi-tech gobble-de-gook that the average home boat builder is expected to wade through when the time comes to paint the boat after the horrendous amount of sanding, fairing and hard work is (mostly) over and the fruits of your labour now require a shiny deep lustre that the painting now promises to bring. This part, to my mind at least, is one of the best parts of boatbuilding, the finish! (Well, at least the start of the finish!)

Painting a boat used to be a reasonably simple task. All one needed was a fine dry day, one of Dad’s paintbrushes, some turps, a roll of masking tape, a bit of pink primer left over from the decorating and a half gallon of shiny blue enamel paint from the local hardware store…they were the days!

Not so today, my friends! The unsuspecting boat builder who toddles off to the local chandlery or superstore best be prepared for the very worst- not only will he (or she) face a huge financial onslaught on their wallet but a mind boggling array of hi-tech whiz wow balderdash that the (generally) uninformed shop assistant will proceed to throw in their general direction in the faint hope that you will give in under the stress and buy several litres of the latest polurethanicalslitheryaminomolecular goop that’s just come in. For example, you’ll be faced with trade names like ‘Interlux Interthane coating’. I mean, come on, it sounds like a new space invaders game! This is bloody paint! There are many others but I’m sure you get the gist of what I’m saying.

Another example of the kind of thing that drives me nuts is that you can expect to buy several litres of a iso-cyanate two pack marine polyurethane paint only to be cheerfully told its illegal to spray it unless you have a proper licenced premises to do so, drone drone!! I suppose they have to make up new names to go with the new paint company policies of charging up to $150 a litre for some of these new fangled paints! What the hell have they discovered that’s so expensive to put in this stuff? I was under the impression that paint was a few litres of linseed oil, turps, some drying agents and a few ounces of pigments for colour…can I really be so out of touch?

BACK TO BASICS

So, why do we paint wooden boats? Or any other boat for that matter? The first part of that question is easy. Boats look much smarter and better if they shine and gleam a bit… it’s only human nature after all. The second part to that question is: We want to protect it. Ok, from what? Well, wood rots if you don’t paint it, right? – wrong! Wood left to its own devices does not rot. Wood only rots as a result of its environment. There are multiple cases of how, plain untreated wood can last for centuries as long as it is in the correct environment. There are basically only a few elements that start wood rotting. Biological attack from spores, fungi, temperature, high humidity or total absorption, physical attack from marine borers and crustaceans that allow ingress to all the other elements aforementioned.

Don’t let’s forget that polluted waters can degrade timber to the point where it will rot….we’ll add chemical attack to that list too. So, in view of all these very compelling reasons we protect our boat by painting it to coat it fully against these assaults.

PREPARATION OF TIMBER

The actual preparation of timber can cover a range of differing requirements. If your boat is a new build you won’t have to go through many of the preparatory stages that an older boat may have to go through. With some forms of boatbuilding where a boat has been built by a different method such as strip planking or cold moulding, we paint the boat as if it were a fibreglass boat, due to the fact that either layers of fibreglass cover the timber or that the timber has been coated with epoxy that does not allow conventional paints to adhere to it properly. However, if we wish to protect bare timber then we use a different tack. Timber in its bare natural state has millions of thin hollow tubes running through it, constructed of cellulose in its natural form. We have to seal these tubes to prevent the ingress of water into them. Therefore we seal and coat the timber first of all.

The first thing we do is to clean and remove any loose and flaking or damaged paint plus any dirt that remains on the hull – sounds easy if you say it quick but it must be done! If necessary (and most times it is) degrease the hull using a proprietary paint degreaser after removing all dust preferably with a vacuum cleaner. Don’t forget it won’t be absolutely necessary to get all the hull back to bare wood just dry, clean, grease and dust free.

FILLING AND IMPERFECTIONS

Obviously, not many timber craft are perfect on the outside. There are many blemishes, cracks, imperfections and splits both large and small to deal with by filling them and sanding them flush before priming the boat. It’s a bit of a chore but time spent here will reward you with a boat that will certainly look better plus have a longer life. Some folks fill these holes and imperfections in timber with epoxy filler but it is not a good idea. Sometime later, for example, when the boat has to undergo a repair, it will be the very devil of a job to remove the epoxy from a fastening hole. It’s best to use some kind of proper timber filler that dries hard and fast but is never that hard that it can’t be removed later on. For example, painter’s glazing compound is a fairly hard setting soft paste that can be quickly applied then sanded and painted satisfactorily. Carvel boats usually have their seams filled fair with a special seam compound AFTER the boat has been primed. Once the boat has been filled and faired smooth and all dust removed we are ready to put some actual paint on. Remember, the difference between a professional paint job and an amateur is the PREPARATION!

WOOD PRESERVATIVE

There are two schools of thought about treating bare timber with wood preservatives. I’ve heard stories that primers and paints don’t adhere to many of them. In my case, I have never personally had that happen to me, so I am generally in favour of using them. Nevertheless, I am convinced that in many cases where the paint refuses to stick to timber is because the wood has not properly dried out after application. There is a definite percentage of humidity level that every timber has (and most of them differ slightly) where paint of any description simply won’t stick. It can be up to fifteen per cent in some timbers. Above all, ensure that your timber is dry enough to allow any paint or filler to adhere to it. Remember too that salt deposits on timber will readily contain water and keep it damp…. if your boat was in salty water wash it off in fresh before commencing painting. When and only when, your timber preservative is dry the next stage is:

PRIMER

The first coat of primer to go onto your hull is metallic grey primer. It is a good primer to use because it is made up of millions of microscopic flat metal (aluminium) plates that lie on top of each other giving water a very hard time to pass though it…Pink primer for example, has circular molecules of substances therefore allowing water to ingress a lot quicker…fact! Grey primers also contain certain oils and most have anti-mould agents contained within (biocides to you and I) We put two coats of grey primer above the waterline and three, no less, below it.

SOME OTHER OBSERVATIONS ABOUT PRIMERS

There are a whole world of paint primers out there and confusion about their qualities are very common. For basic dry timbers, the grey metallic primers are good as previously explained. Also many oil-based primers from well-known companies are also very good and will do the job perfectly well. Hi-build primers however must be approached with caution and I must say that I have never personally got on too well with them. Most of them contain Titanium Dioxide (that’s talcum powder to us lot) and even when it is fully cured can absorb copious amounts of moisture that can prevent really good paint adhesion. To avoid this only paint hi-build primers on good clear dry days and avoid excessive atmospheric humidity levels. Then, as soon as is possible apply the topcoats to seal them in. Note too, that hi-build primers are a soft type of paint and can suffer badly from scuffing over stony or shingly beaches and even when launching from boat trailers. When sanding these primers remember that huge clouds of white dust are released so be aware of where you sand and wear appropriate safety masks.

TOPCOATS

Once again, there are many types to choose from. Let’s get the two- packs out of the way first. TWO-PACK POLYURETHANES have to be applied over a two-pack epoxy undercoat first of all. They have a fantastic finish and that’s fine but you must be absolutely sure that the timber underneath is not going to move because the paint cures so hard that it can and will crack (strip plankers and cold moulded boats are your best bet here…apart of course from glass boats). The primary reason is that timber constructed boats move or ‘work’ as it is known. You may well get away with it if your timber boat has been glassed from new….not glassed over later as a preventative method to stop leaks. Rarely boats treated thus dry out properly and are still susceptible to movement as the timber inside the glass either rots because it was wet or it dries out too much and shrinks. Also boats that have been chined properly, that is, strips of timber glued in between the planks instead of being caulked, stand a reasonable chance of not moving.

Ok, what else? One pack or single pack polyurethane paints can be a good choice for a topcoat…they are almost as glossy and as durable as the two-packs but not quite! They are however, less expensive and far easier to apply than the two-packs… there are a multitude of them out there, so a bit of research is required plus your own personal choice…I’m not going to get involved in a slanging match about which ones are the best! However, remember most major well-known paint manufacturer’s products are usually ok! It’s your call!

So next on my list are marine enamels. Once again, it pays to remember that anything with MARINE in front of it is usually expensive…a good place to avoid in this quest is the large hardware chain stores that sport one or two paints in this category and I’ve fallen for it myself before now. It’s the Name we are looking for!

Even with decent quality marine enamels some of the whites have been known to yellow with age and the way round this is to buy the off-white colours such as cream or buff. My last choice in Marine enamels proper, is a relative newcomer…a water-based enamel. I personally have never used any but I have heard some good reports and there has to be a few advantages with them, quick cleanup for one and you can even drink the thinners!

ASSORTED CHOICES

There are a few types of paint systems that are different to the abovementioned and as usual they probably will draw a lot of flack from those types that love writing to the editor for some reason or the other. Mainly I suspect, because something isn’t quite conventional. Each of the following paints has their different uses and attributes.

HOUSE PAINT ENAMELS

Over the years the quality of house paint enamels has been increasing dramatically to the point where many yachties I know paint their boats with it. It’s a bit softer (and definitely cheaper) than most single pack polyurethanes and some colours, mostly the darker hues, tend to fade earlier than others. However, the fact remains that they can be an excellent choice especially if you own a small boat and don’t mind repainting it every couple of years….cheap to buy, easy to apply!

WATER BASED ACRYLICS

A few years ago you wouldn’t have dreamed of painting your boat with acrylic paint….it would have peeled off in great strips. That does not apply today however. My own boat, The NICKY J has been painted using Wattyl’s Acrylic semi-gloss “CANE” and it is really amazing. I used gloss for the hull and semi-gloss for the decks over white epoxy primer single pack and it has been really good. Never once has it even looked like delaminating. I paint the boat once a year with a roller and it takes less than a day…and she’s forty two feet long! It is yet another choice!

Well there’s your main paint choices but I urge you to remember one thing…preparation is King… it will save you plenty of money in the long run, for sure.

HOW TO APPLY YOUR PAINT

There are of course, three main methods of applying your paints; Spraying, brushing and rollering. There’s another that many people use, a combination of the last two, rolling and tipping, we’ll deal with that one later.

Let’s take a look at spraying. There are several pre-requisites for a decent spray job. These usually are a decent workshop complete with suction fans and half decent ventilation using good spray gear (cheapo underpowered stuff just doesn’t cut the mustard) and most importantly, adequate and proper safety gear. There are always exceptions to the rule and there’s one chap who works in Edge’s boatyard outside in the weather and he does a fantastic job…imagine how much better he might be if he worked indoors!! You will also have to watch the weather, high humidity is not good and also where the overspray goes…not over anyone’s car as is so often the case! A good excess of paint is lost and wasted in the process. If you have a driving need for you boat to look like your car then sprayings for you! Oh yeah, it quick(ish) too!

Brushing by hand can yield incredible results if you are patient and also know what you are doing. I’ve seen boats that at first glance look like they have been sprayed only to find out that they were hand painted by brush…….Dust free atmosphere and bloody good brushes (I mean expensive) are an absolute must here.

Last of all, rollering especially the ‘roll and tip’ method. This requires two people working together as a team. One rolls the paint on thinly and the other follows closely with a decent brush and ‘tips’ out the bubbles left behind by the roller – unbelievably good finishes can be obtained by this method.

A word of warning, no matter which method you use. Don’t be tempted to retouch runs or sags in the paint or you will ruin the finish….wait until the paint has fully dried then deal with it! It’s tempting but paint always seems to gel quicker than you would think!

A SUMMARY

There are many facets to the successful painting of a boat. We can’t be good at all of them and you have to choose the method most suited to you own particular capabilities. A lot depends on the facilities that you have available at your disposal. Some people have the garden to work in others may have huge sheds and even access to a warehouse! I will say that a few basic rules apply to painting even the smallest boat. Often, too much, too clever or too sophisticated is often detrimental to what you are trying to achieve.

I have seen boats that cost twenty grand to paint and they were just really average…why? Wrong choice of painter, that’s why. If you are going to choose a painter it’s not a crime to ask him to show you some examples of his work. If he’s any good there should be plenty…there are plenty of chancers and cowboys about, rest assured. All boats, every single one of them will need retouching or even a repaint within years. Just how long you get for your money is the trick. Unless you put your freshly painted boat in a museum or garage and lock it away you can bet that from day one, it will collect nicks, dings, scratches and scars, it’s inevitable. Beware the painter who tells you, ‘yes it will be ten grand, but it’ll outlast you and me’. The need for repainting is directly proportional to how badly the boat is treated over the years. The only way of keeping your boat pristine and perfect is never to actually put it in that dirty old water once it’s done! Be realistic about your own abilities and your expectations. Simple can be better in many cases.

A SIMPLE FORMULA FOR CALCULATING HOW MUCH PAINT YOU NEED (FOR ONE COAT)

This is interesting if not exactly exact! But it gets very close indeed. This is applicable to brushing and rolling only NOT spraying. There’s a different formula for that and I don’t know it!

THE FORMULA

ONE COAT = The boat’s length overall x the beam x 0.85

Divided by square feet covered per litre listed on the paint can instructions.

If you can’t work it out the paint manufacturer will tell you if you ring the company hotline.

Over the years, wooden boats have survived the elements in spite of very crude and primitive forms of paint. Many early vessels were simply daubed in pitch, bitumen, turps and beeswax. An early Thames barge had survived for over a hundred years in perfect condition as she was originally used as a bitumen tanker!! The dark brown shiny finish was the most perfect example of preserved wood that I have ever seen. One of the most interesting boats I ever saw was painted with fence paint…the owner reckoned he’d only ever painted it once in thirty years! Another old boat builder I knew once told me the secret of painting a wooden boat was to paint it with as many coats of paint that you could afford!

Extra Strong

Here are some more constipation remedies using fruits. Try to get your organic fruits and eat them as soon as possible. The longer you keep fruits, without using them, the less enzymes and nutrients they have.

Apricots

Apricots are one of most nutritious fruits since they are high in fiber, vitamin A, C, potassium, and have many other minerals. One apricot has around 1000 IU of vitamin A. This vitamin is mainly in the form of the precursor beta-carotene.

Apricots have a laxative effect and are usually available during the summer. Dried apricots are also good and are much higher in vitamin A and in minerals.

Use dried apricots that have not been dried with sulfur dioxide. Some people are allergic to sulfur dioxide and it is considered a pollutant that is found in our air. This chemical is a preservative that prevents apricots from turning brown.

If you have an ulcer, eating apricots with sulfur dioxide can increase your stomach acid and aggravate it.

Avocado with Apple Cider Vinegar and Lemon

Here’s a recipe that will make you go to the bathroom in a couple of hours.

Peel 1-2 avocados

Add a little sea salt

3-4 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar (to taste)

1-2 tablespoons of lemon (to taste)

Mix all together and spread on your favorite crackers

Have a good time eating

Yes, avocados are high in fat but they contain fat that is good for you, monounsaturated. In 4 oz., half of an avocado contains 500mg of potassium and folate.

Bananas

Bananas are rich in potassium. They assist in healing open wounds in the interior body membranes. They are helpful in stopping diarrhea and at the same time in promoting bowel movements.

Eat two bananas on an empty stomach followed by a glass of distilled water. After your constipation is cleared, eat only one banana each day.

Blueberries

Blue berries can act as a laxative for some people despite its use to stop diarrhea. These berries have chemicals, anthocyanosides that can kill bacteria and viruses

Blueberries are also good for reducing inflammation. This makes them good for inflammations that occur all along the gastrointestinal tract.

Boysenberries

Boysenberry juice has a gentle natural laxative action on your bowel. When your constipation is not extra serious this juice will help move things in your colon.

Cantaloupe

Cantaloupe is one of best fruits you can eat. It contains many minerals and has Vitamin A and C. It is high in potassium. It has plenty of fiber and is useful for constipation.

Cherries

Cherries are high in potassium, fiber, and many other minerals, which are effective in neutralizing body acid. They contain vitamins B-1, B-2, folic acid and niacin.

Cherries have a laxative effect and can start peristaltic action.

Eat fresh cherries throughout the day or drink 3 glasses, 8 oz, of cherry juice during the day. Buy cherry juice in glass container. Eating and drinking cherries like this has kept me from having constipation. Cherries are usually only available during the summer, but you can buy cherry juice anytime.

Dried cherries can also be used except the can be expensive.

Use these fruits mention as constipation remedies and at the same time gain the benefits of their nutritional value.

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An acid reflux disease diet can help control the occurrence of acid reflux and decrease the risk of heartburn for gastroesophageal reflux disease (GERD) sufferers. Following a controlled diet is a matter of determining which foods trigger symptoms, and which foods are safe to eat.

Creating a two-week food diary, where you make a record of all the foods you ingest and the symptoms that follow, is the best way to discover the foods to eliminate. After two weeks, you should then present your food diary to your doctor or dietician so he/she can help create a diet plan that is beneficial for you.

Although it is in your best interest to create a food diary, the following are 7 food categories and the related foods you should avoid, or are considered safe to eat in each. The seven categories are:

1. Dairy

2. Meat

3. Grains

4. Vegetables and Fruit

5. Fats and oil

6. Sweets and snacks

7. Beverages

By knowing what you should and shouldn’t eat within each food category is how you create an acid reflux disease diet that effectively relieves symptoms by stopping them before they start.

Foods you should avoid

The following foods should be eliminated or dramatically limited in an acid reflux disease diet, as ingesting them, even in small quantities, can aggravate symptoms and lead to recurring heartburn.

Dairy – Cottage cheese, sour cream, ice cream and ice cream related products (I.E. milk shakes, floats, etc.)

Meat – Buffalo wings, chicken nuggets, ground beef, and marbled steak

Grains – Pasta with marinara sauce, macaroni and cheese

Vegetables & Fruit – Vegetables: raw onion, French fires, mashed potatoes. Fruits: Citrus fruits and juices which include lemon, lime, lemonade, orange, orange juice, grapefruit and grapefruit juice, cranberry juice, tomato and tomato juice.

Fats and oil – Oily or creamy salad dressings, and essentially all fried or fatty processed Foods.

Sweets and Snacks – Chocolate, doughnuts, butter cookies, brownies, corn chips, and potato chips.

Beverages – Alcohol, regular or decaffeinated coffee and tea, high-sugared drinks such as soda.

Foods considered safe

The following foods are considered safe to eat and shouldn’t aggravate your GERD symptoms; therefore, they can become a regular part of your acid reflux disease diet.

Dairy – Fat-free cream cheese, feta or goat cheese, low-fat soy cheese.

Meat – Extra lean ground beef, London broiled steak, skinless chicken breast, egg whites, imitation eggs, and fish without additional fat.

Grains – Whole grain or white bread, corn bread, oatmeal, bran cereal, white or brown rice

Vegetables & Fruit – Vegetables: broccoli, carrots, cabbage, peas, green beans, and baked potato.

Fruits: banana, fresh or dried apple, apple juice.

Fats and oil – low fat salad dressing

Sweets and Snacks – Pretzels, baked potato chips, graham crackers, rice cakes, fat free cookies, red liquorice, and jelly beans

Beverages – Water

Occasional treats

Last, but not least, the following is a brief list of foods you can occasionally enjoy in your acid reflux disease diet, but should be consumed with discretion and in moderation as they can aggravate symptoms:

Dairy – Yogurt, cheddar or mozzarella cheese

Meat -fired eggs, fried fish, hot dog, ham and tuna salad.

Grains – Granola cereal and muffin.

Vegetables & Fruit – Vegetables: garlic, leeks, and green onions. Fruits: low-acid orange juice, dried cranberries, strawberries, raspberries and blueberries.

Fats and oil – ketchup

Sweets and Snacks – low-fat cookies

Beverages – non-alcoholic drinks and carbonated drinks

Finally, keep in mind that the above food lists are only general guidelines. Some of the foods considered safe to eat for one heartburn sufferer may not be the same for another. Therefore, make sure you keep a food diary to determine what the best acid reflux disease diet is for you, so you can effectively treat and prevent your symptoms.

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Do you have acne scarring but plastic surgery is out of the question? No need to worry. While you may not get Dr. 90210 like results, items available in your own kitchen can help improve acne scarring if done correctly.

In two simple steps, all you need to do to affordably improve your acne scarring is:

1. Gently remove the damaged layers of the skin and

2. Nurture your skin with collagen and moisture building foods so that your skin can more rapidly repair itself.

Acne Scar Remedy 1: Lemons

If your acne scars dark, you can use lemon juice to lighten them. Cleanse your face with lemon juice. Dab one teaspoon of lemon juice into a cotton ball and smooth it over the acne marks. Leave for ten minutes, then rinse. Use caution with lemon juice because it can make your skin photosensitive. So be certain to use a sunscreen on any area you treat with lemon juice prior to going out into the sun.

Acne Scar Remedy 2: Soda

Exfoliate your skin with baking soda. Often times a version of baking soda is used in cosmetic microdermabrasion treatments. You can give yourself a mini microdermabrasion treatment by mixing one teaspoon of baking soda with the two teaspoons of filtered water. Then gently rub the mixture on your acne scar for sixty seconds then rinse it off.

Acne Scar Remedy 3: Olives

After exfoliating your skin with baking soda, massage a pea-sized amount of olive oil onto your face. Acne scaring can cause the skin to lose its elasticity and suppleness. The moisturizing nutrients in the olive oil will penetrate the skin to deeply moisturize the skin and soften the skin’s texture.

Acne Scar Remedy 4: Fruits

In addition to eating fresh fruits to supply your skin with collagen building vitamin C, you can also smear them onto your face for gentle acid exfoliation. Just puree a forth a cup of pineapple and smooth it onto your face. Leave it for 10-15 minutes, then rinse. Since the pineapples contains ascorbic acid, it will impart a brightening effect on the face, and help fade acne marks.

Acne Scar Remedy 5: Water

It cannot be said enough. “Your skin needs water.” Especially when you want to promote the type of skin repair needed to heal acne scarring. Your skin needs water to keep the skin plump, to remove toxins, and the build new skin cells. Drink at least 80 ounces of filtered water a day to give your skin the quality and quantity of water it needs to reveal healthier, fresher skin.

Acne Scar Remedy 6: Consistency

The ultimate ingredient needed to completely remove acne scars is consistency. Acne scars form over a series of weeks, layer by layer. To remove the acne scarring, you need to use your acne home remedy on a daily basis to remove the damaged scar tissue layer by layer.

To be successful at fading and healing your acne scars at home, you just need to plan in advance. Devote time to removing the damaged skin and giving yourself the nutrients you need to build healthier skin. For example, you can decide to spend five minutes a day exfoliating your skin with baking soda or pineapple and another ten minutes enjoying collagen building foods like soy, grapes or oranges. Do it consistently and you will see and improvement in your scars.

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How to Digest Nuts Better: Behind the Scenes

Salting, roasting, toasting, soaking – what helps, what hinders and why do so many people have problems with eating nuts? Here is a step by step breakdown of the digestive process, and how nuts are impacted by one’s digestive system.

How Digestion Breaks Down Nuts in Stages

Roughly a three-stage process, digestion begins in the mouth, when as you are chewing, enzymes in the saliva begin to break down the starch in foods. Later, enzymes in the stomach begin to release or unfasten the bonds (chemical in nature) that hold the proteins in food together. Still more enzymes in the intestines, together with bile, continue to break down foods (and nuts), working on the protein, starches and fats.

Not all materials can be broken down by the body, however, and high on the list is fiber, which is not digestible. Fiber makes its way through the intestines, only partially broken down by the bacteria in the colon; this process is again aided by the production of enzymes in this part of the body. Comparatively, starches are broken down in a couple of hours or less, while proteins take at least that long, and may stay in the body for upwards of 5 hours. Fat takes even longer, which means that high fat meals stay in the body for potentially many hours.

How Nuts Are Composed: Proteins and Fiber

High in both fiber and protein (as well as healthy fat – upwards of fifty percent), most tree nuts also contain a good deal of protein (10-20%). The fiber content in nuts is also significant, amounting to upwards of ten percent of their nutritional make-up. Nuts make up an excellent source of nutrition and sustained energy for these very reasons: the fiber and healthy fat contents, along with the protein, all make for a slow digestion cycle in the body.

Digesting Nuts: How Preparation Might Factor In

As mentioned earlier, cooking methods like roasting or baking can also influence the how your body successfully (or otherwise) digests nuts. Any type of cooking essentially breaks down food at a chemical level, in a way not dissimilar to the body’s own methods. The lower the temperature, the better the process aids the body itself in further breaking down and digesting the food. High-temperature baking and cooking destroys many of these same chemical bonds. The good fats to be found in nuts are among these bonds that are destroyed in high-temperature cooking.

Other Compounds Found in Nuts, and Digestion

Tannins, found in nuts, are naturally occurring complex polyphenolics, and are often found in woody plants. Polyphenolics are simply natural antioxidants that comprise an organic defense for plants; these may also be good for human health. The tannins’ main function in nature is a protective one, as their bitter taste deters many animals from eating the foods that contain them. For example, walnuts are chief among the foods high in tannin. Additionally, tannins are contained in cashews, pistachios, pecans and the skins of almonds and peanuts.

These same tannins are heat-resistant, so even high temperature baking and roasting does not break them down, which partially explains why the nuts might give some people trouble when digesting. The fibrous quality of nuts, given the intestine’s inability to completely break down fiber, also explains why there may be some trouble digesting nuts. Gas is produced by the intestine in many cases as some of the colon’s bacteria attempts to break down whatever parts of the fiber that it can.

Cooking, Roasting, Baking: Digestion Helpers With Nuts?

Cooking nuts in a variety of fashions, to recap, does aid in breaking down the starch elements of the the nuts’ nutritional make-up. However, the very elements that might increase difficulty in digestion, the high proteins, tannins and fiber, still produce problems for many. The plant protein-rich quality of nuts may prove to be handled well by the stomach, though in many cases, where the pancreas aids in the process, the roasting of the nuts can help improve nuts’ digestibility.

Digesting Nuts May Be Slow, But Benefits Are High

It is the healthy fats found in nuts that end up contributing to the slowing down of digestion the most. This is especially true when compared to how quickly the body may break down foods that are high in carbohydrates, like breads and fruits. The fiber in nuts is generally what gives a feeling of fullness, but the gas that is produced in the intestines as some bacteria attempt to break down the nut’s fiber may also promote a full feeling. Eating too many nuts at a time (beyond two servings) may produce many of the symptoms and effects mentioned above, leading a person to feel full and perhaps suffer mild indigestion. The reality is that the proteins, fiber and healthy fats are the cause – not over-eating.

Benefits of Soaking and Re-hydrating Nuts

Soaking nuts like almonds and cashews in filtered water re-hydrates them. (To find out even more on Re-hydrating Nuts [http://www.greeneggsandplanet.com/blog], read this Green Eggs and Planet post.) Beyond the enriched flavor and new texture, the process also removes chemicals known as enzyme inhibitors. These chemicals are natural, and exist for the purpose of protecting the nut until it is the appropriate time for it to sprout. When you soak the nuts in water, the fluids release the enzyme inhibitors and wash them away. For those who experience a bit of trouble when digesting dried nuts, removing the enzyme inhibitors (which can make the nut difficult to digest) may solve the problem.

Other options to aid in digestion include eating raw nuts in smaller portions, to maximize the healthy benefits of the nuts while minimizing the pain of indigestion, or lightly roasting nuts to begin the process of chemically breaking down the nuts. Avoid commercially roasted nuts, however, as the high temperatures (+170F) cause a breakdown of the fats in nuts, thus producing free radicals that are harmful to the body.

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The origin of the fruit salad dates back to the 19th century, when it was included in many menus from different countries. A fruit salad is a dish comprised of a variety of fruits served with a base sauce or in their own syrup. A fruit salad is usually served as a dessert. It is also served as an appetizer called a fruit cocktail. When served as a fruit cocktail it is often prepared in an alcohol and sugar base.

The fruits that form parts of a fruit salad vary from country to country. It is determined by the seasonal availability of the fruits and where they are grown. Fruit salads often include apples, pineapples, pears, cherries, grapes, kiwifruit, peaches and oranges.

A fruit salad is an extremely nutritious dish that provides many vitamins and minerals needed by the body. It is a wonderfully refreshing dish that provides instant energy.

The fruit salad has many variations as per the taste preferred in that particular country. In Northern Europe, fruit salad is served with a mayonnaise base. Countries like Malaysia and Indonesia prefer to have it with a spicier flavor. There are also other variations served with yogurt or a sour cream base. A very common and popular way of serving the fruit salad in India is with ice cream. Fruit salad can be prepared with both fresh and canned fruits. It has thus, evolved into an extremely popular dish fulfilling both nutritional and taste criteria.

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Turkey is the Main dish when it comes to thanksgiving. So you want it to be the best looking and the most tender, juiciest eye appealing dish on the table. People will never forget that juicy turkey. I take pleasure in preparing my turkey. I love turkey it’s one of the healthiest meats to eat. To keep my turkey nice and moist I use my butter seasoning juice. Ok, here we go.

You will need: A Turkey

Butter

Roasting Pan

Aluminum Foil

Season salt

Garlic powder

Onion Powder

Pepper

First let your turkey defrosts all night. You can let it defrost in the fridge. Once it is defrosted, take it out of the wrapper and rinse thoroughly. Turn oven on 300 to 350 degrees. Unloop the legs from the skin and remove the heart, liver and etc pack from inside of the turkey. You will need a roasting pan for the turkey. Place the turkey in the pan and poke holes into the turkey. Poke holes all over the turkey, the legs, wings, breast and butt. If you’re using an aluminum roasting pan, be careful not to poke a hole in i. It takes a turkey three and a half to four hours to cook. Depending on how much the turkey weighs.

The Butter Seasoning Juice

You need a stick and a half of butter. Melt butter in medium bowl in microwave or on the top of the stove in a small pot. If you are melting the butter on the stove make sure you turn the eye on the stove down to low heat. If you are melting the butter in the microwave. Use a microwaveable bowl with a top to melt it. It will not take the butter long to melt in the microwave, so put the microwave on 30 seconds.

Pour three tbsp of seasoning salt, tbsp of garlic powder, onion powder and a tsp of pepper into the butter and stir. Pour the seasoning all over the turkey while rubbing it. Rub it to make sure the butter juice gets all over the turkey and through the holes. This will keep the turkey moist and make it tender. Place the top of the roasting pan over the turkey and put it in the oven. If you have an aluminum pan that does not have a top use aluminum foil to cover the turkey. Cover it tight; fold the foil under the rim of the pan so that it does not come loose.

Every half an hour to forty minutes baste the turkey with the butter juice that it is cooking in. This keeps it from drying out. Keep basting until turkey is done, the turkey usually comes with a pop out timer that’ll pop out to let you know when it’s done. That’s it you are finished and you can congratulate yourself on a job well done.

Happy Thanksgiving!

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If for some reason wild baby mice have been placed in your care, I have included a few tips on caring and feeding to help you give them a chance at life. Please be aware that even in the wild, mice have a 50% chance of surviving beyond 5 months of age, given a normal upbringing. The mice that do make it can live up to around 5 years if healthy. A pair will have a better chance of survival than a lone mouse.

As soon as you have your baby mice, it is important to keep them safe and warm. You can use a small pet carrier, large plastic tub or any other suitable box in which you can put them. Layer the bottom with a towel and place the mice on top. Then, use another soft material to lightly cover the mice like fleece. Place the box in a warm place, ensuring that it isn’t hot; otherwise the mice will become dehydrated. A heater on the lowest setting may be all that is needed. Test the towel the mice are laying on so that it feels cosy and warm to your hand.

If the baby mice are less than 14 days old they will need dropper fed with a milk substitute until they are weaned. They usually open their eyes when they are just about weaned and able to eat by themselves. You will need to feed them every 2 hours so be prepared to get up during the night. Set your alarm. When I was looking after wild mice, I was getting up every 2 hours to check them. I have since read that during the night mother mouse would be away looking for food and may only return to the nest once to feed her babies. Use common sense, if you can manage a few night feeds, all the best for the babies chance of survival, especially in the early days.

Kitten milk is available to buy at pet shops. I used raw coconut blended up and strained. It should be 1 cup coconut to about 2 and ½ cups water. You could also use soaked almonds to make an almond milk using the same ratios. Make sure the nuts are natural and plain. Once you’ve made up the milk, store in a sterilised glass jar and keep in the fridge until required. When you go to feed the mice, take a quarter a cup of the milk and warm it up by pouring it in a small jug and standing in hot water. Use a dropper or baby syringe (you can get these at the chemist) to feed 1 or 2 drops of the milk at a time into the baby mouse mouth. When the mice are really young, they might not open their mouth. Be careful not to get the milk up their noses, they will splutter/cough if you do. It can be dangerous for their health if you do. The way I fed the mice was to put a facecloth down on a table and to put one mouse at a time onto it. Then you can gently hold the baby’s head whilst you administer the milk with the dropper. You’ll get the hang of it with a bit of practise. The baby might not seem to be taking much milk, don’t worry. Very young babies may only need to get a drop or 2 on their mouth/tongues until they can take more. The main purpose here is to keep them hydrated with a little drop at a time every couple of hours.

Once the baby is fed, you need to stimulate a bowel movement. To do this, put some warm water in a small bowl and dip a cotton bud into it. Then, put the cotton bud between the baby’s back legs and gently turn the bud around. You should see a little brown staining, that is their poo. Dip the other end of the bud into the water and gently stroke the baby’s body, this emulates the mother licking them. After all that, tuck baby up in it’s soft bedding and place in a warm spot. This is the basic routine that needs to be repeated every couple of hours during the day and at least 2-3 times during the night, especially around 1am and 5am.

As you can see, it’s quite a commitment, looking after baby wild mice. But, there is also a great reward in the caring of them and the bonding you will feel as a carer.

When the babies start to open their eyes or at least take a peak, they may be taking a lot more milk and starting to walk around a little. This is when you need to be extra careful; one fall is enough to be fatal. You can make a little safe roaming area in the bottom part of a pet cage or shoebox/basin. Line it with newspaper and leaves to simulate a natural environment. The youngsters will enjoy stretching their legs and taking their first steps. This is important, as it will build up their muscles and strength.

Once the babies start to bite your fingers quite firmly when you feed them, they may be ready for a little solid food. They will also be starting to open their eyes (12-14 days old) Start very slowly with this. Try some baby fruit puree to start or natural rice pudding. The food should not be chilled. Let them lick it off your finger. Avoid putting the purees onto a dish for the mice to feed from, as they might get messy and end up with matted fur, which needs to be avoided. Some other foods to graduate to are porridge, banana, tomato, dried oat flakes, strawberry. Just go real easy with the food and keep it simple and easily digested to start with. Congratulations! You’ve actually made it to the weaning stage, which is quite something with wild baby mice.

Continue to provide a safe space for the mice to sleep and once weaned, they will be able to come out at night to feed. Give them a little dish near their bed so they can feed during the night. At least you can get some sleep now! Continue to offer the milk during the day and provide some water for them. Usually, wild mice will still have some mothers milk up to about 4 weeks of age.

Now you have to decide whether to keep them or release into the wild. I don’t know how many mice have been successfully hand-reared and released into the wild. I would think it unlikely that they can survive. However, you’ve done your bit and if they seem strong and healthy and quite active, it might be possible to release them. Or, you can keep them as pets.

Finally, if you did your best and the mice died, don’t feel bad. Survival chances in the best of conditions i.e. with their natural mother are still low. Just enjoy the experience you’ve had with them and the opportunity to get a glimpse into their little lives. They are little bundles of love and it is wonderful to have at least given them some love when otherwise they might have perished.

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So, you find a lump on your midsection and the first thing that you think is “Oh no, I got the Big C.” But when you go to the doctor, he or she feels the lump and tells you that there is nothing to worry about, that what you have is a lipoma. Lipomas are fatty tumors that slowly grow underneath the skin feeding off of your body’s fat deposits. Most of the time, they are completely harmless, except for their general unsightliness.

After going to the doctor to make sure that they are indeed benign, there are a few things that you can try to help get rid of these lumps of fat that lie like curdled milk underneath the surface of the skin. If they are humongous (which can happen when they form on your back) you might want to get them surgically removed. However, there are a few home remedies that you might want to try first before going this route.

Herbal treatments for lipomas

Chickweed: Chickweed tea or ointment has been shown to help reduce the size of these fatty tumors and even get rid of them altogether. You can find dried chickweed herb and chickweed based creams and ointments at many health food stores. To make a tea: steep two teaspoons of dried chickweed into boiling water for fifteen minutes.
Thuja occidentalis: This is a type of cedar that practitioners pf Ayurvedic medicine like to use as a treatment for common skin problems such as warts, polyps and lipomas. Rub your fatty tumors with a combination of thuja extract and water two to three times a day to achieve best results.

Lifestyle changes

They do not call lipomas “fatty tumors” for the fun of it. These guys are actually composed of fat that is stored within your body. One of the best ways to reduce their presence is to cut down on the fat intake. Eat leaner meats and avoid those delicious but high fat content dairy products like cheese and butter.

You can also try several herbal remedies that are meant to help boost your metabolism and burn off that fat before they add to your lipoma problem. Green tea is a great fat burner, just be sure to drink the real thing in lieu of supplements which do not work nearly as well. There is also an Indian herb called bedellium that can help you burn fat, just be sure that you do not have a thyroid condition before taking it.

The best way to tackle these lipomas is probably to utilize a combination of lipoma reducing ointments, fat burning herbal supplements along with proper diet and exercise. Also, it will help if you do a toxin flush and take immune boosting supplements like dandelion or Echinacea. Be aware, these fatty tumors are not going to disappear overnight and it may take several months to see any real results.

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Shrimp is without a doubt one of the most popular forms of seafood in the US and abroad. When compared to other types of shellfish, like lobster for instance, it is more affordable, and can be just as delicious if prepared correctly. It is an extremely versatile shellfish and with a bit of experience, is very easy to cook.

As the title of this article suggests, many people are searching for the best way to cook frozen shrimp. The reason why this is such a popular question is because this shellfish freezes very well. Many of us, after we buy some, store it in the freezer for future use. In fact, most of the shrimp we purchase is frozen before we buy it from the store. Even the shrimp that is supposedly fresh, has more than likely been recently thawed. There is nothing wrong with this, as I said earlier, this shellfish freezes quite well.

Hopefully the shrimp you already have on hand is still in the shell. You should avoid, if possible, purchasing any that has been peeled. A lot of the flavor is in the shells, so if it has been pre-peeled, it would have lost a good deal of essential flavor. Besides, if you peel it yourself, you can save the shells and use them to make a delicious stock that can be used in lots of other recipes.

Of all the various ways to cook shrimp, grilling and broiling are by far my favorite methods as I believe they impart the best flavor and are rather simple to prepare. Below is a recipe and instructions for marinating and grilling shrimp.



ABOUT THAWING FROZEN SHRIMP

I highly recommend that you DO NOT use your microwave to defrost shrimp, or any meat for that matter. I know, from past experience, that the microwave can partially cook the meat during the thawing process and it also does something to the flavor and texture of the meat. I will usually take the shrimp out of the freezer a day or two before I plan on cooking, place it in a covered bowl, and defrost it in the refrigerator. If I am in a really hurry, I will place them in a colander and thaw under running cold water.

ABOUT GRILLING SHRIMP

Grilling this delicious shellfish, preferably on a charcoal grill, provides intense flavor and they hold up wonderfully on the grill. Some of the best types of ingredients that compliment grilled shrimp are acids like lemon, lime, orange, tomato and vinegar. One of my all time favorite ways to grill them is by first marinating them in a citrus herb marinade. This is especially wonderful in the summertime. It is light, healthy and goes great with an ice cold beer or glass of wine.

A NOTE BEFORE WE BEGIN

Keep the shells on when marinating and grilling. Many recipes call for grilling with the shells removed. This is not recommended as the shells not only provide great flavor, but they also protect the shrimp from overcooking and drying out. This is not necessary, but it is also quite helpful to keep the tails on as well. After cooking, the tails provide an easy way to handle the shrimp while eating.



GRILLED SHRIMP WITH CITRUS HERB MARINADE

INGREDIENTS

1 Pound of Shrimp (Thawed if Frozen, Shells on & De veined)

1/4 Cup of Extra Virgin Olive Oil

2 1/2 Tablespoons of Fresh Lemon Juice

1 1/2 Tablespoons Fresh Orange Juice

1/3 Cup of Freshly Chopped Parsley

1/3 Cup Freshly Chopped Cilantro

2 Cloves of Garlic Minced

1 Teaspoon of Salt

1/4 Teaspoon of Freshly Cracked Black Pepper

4 skewers – Either Bamboo or Metal. (If using bamboo, soak in water for 15 -20 minutes before grilling)

DIRECTIONS

Step 1 – De vein the Shrimp – Cut a 1/4 inch slit, through the shell, in the back of the shrimp and carefully remove the vein, leaving the shell intact.

Step 2 – In a large bowl, mix together all ingredients except the shrimp

Step 3 – Add shrimp to the bowl with the marinade and toss to coat. Refrigerate for 1 Hour.

Step 4 – When you are ready to cook, thread the shrimp on the skewers and discard the marinade.

Step 5 – Preheat your grill to high and cook for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes per side.

Well there you have it. You now have a good idea of what to do with those frozen shrimp sitting in your freezer. I hope you enjoy the included summer grilling recipe. Enjoy and happy eating!

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